Wright Auction

Paul-Émile Brandt, born in Chaux-Fonds, Switzerland in 1883, was a pioneering jeweler and designer best remembered for his bold and innovative Art Nouveau and Art Deco designs. He moved to Paris at a young age, where he studied under masters such as Chaplain and Allard, gaining a comprehensive foundation in jewelry design, painting, sculpture, engraving, and enameling. Initially working in the Art Nouveau style, Brandt's creations quickly gained recognition, with several pieces acquired by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs following his exhibition at the annual Expositions of 'La Société des Artistes Français' in 1906.

In 1912, Brandt officially registered his maker's mark and established his premises at 23 rue Victor-Chevreuil. He was known for experimenting with various techniques, including engraving on gemstones. One notable piece featured a carved oval moonstone depicting a reclining female figure and an angel, set within a three-dimensional diamond and calibré-cut sapphire pleated surround.

Brandt's participation in the Salon des Artistes Français in 1923 showcased his range, inviting guests to view "jewels, jewelry and engraved stones, precious stones, platinum and gold." His involvement in the 1925 International Exhibition of Decorative Arts cemented his reputation, presenting Art Deco style jewels that combined brilliant cut diamonds, platinum, gold, and hardstones like malachite and lapis lazuli. As the decade progressed, Brandt embraced a modernist style, incorporating geometric forms, stark colored enamels, and eggshell lacquer into his designs.

Brandt placed great importance on the display of his jewelry. In 1927, he commissioned architect Eric Bagge to design his salon window, reflecting the geometric forms of his jewelry. He experimented with the effects of light, juxtaposing materials like lapis lazuli, lacquer, rock crystal, diamonds, and pearls. His work during the early 1930s included rings, pendants, and bracelets that combined geometric figures with relief sections.

In addition to jewelry, Brandt ventured into industrial design. In the late 1930s, he opened a tin factory in Rue de Tlemcen, which contributed to the war effort between 1939 and 1945. Brandt passed away in Paris in 1952, and his factory closed the following year. His legacy, marked by innovation and artistic excellence, continues to influence jewelry design and decorative arts globally.